Typica Mejorado: the variety that isn't a Typica


Jasmine first, then peach. Then a body that has no business being that heavy underneath all those florals, and a finish that keeps going long after you've put the cup down. That's Typica Mejorado on a good day, and it's the reason a variety almost nobody had heard of fifteen years ago now turns up on World Barista Championship stages and in the top three at Cup of Excellence.

There's just one problem. It probably isn't a Typica.

The name translates from Spanish as "improved Typica", which sets a clear expectation: take one of the two founding varieties of cultivated Arabica, select it for better performance, and you get this. And in the cup, that story holds up beautifully. Floral without being thin. Clean and elegant. The kind of complex fruit character you'd hope for from the very best Typica lots anywhere in the world.

Then someone sent the leaves off for DNA testing, and the story fell apart.

What the genetics actually say

Our Green Buyer, Roland, puts it plainly. To the best of our knowledge, Typica Mejorado is a hybrid of Bourbon and an unknown Ethiopian sample, with an appearance and a flavour profile close to the best examples of Typica, but genetically entirely distinct from it.

That conclusion comes from a specific piece of work. The importer The Coffee Quest took leaf samples from Ecuadorian farms and sent them to World Coffee Research for genetic fingerprinting. The results came back saying that Bourbon Sidra was neither Bourbon nor Typica but Ethiopian heirloom, and that Typica Mejorado was not Typica at all. Since then, that finding has travelled through the trade until it's become the standard line on offer sheets from Brooklyn to Sydney.

Two things are worth saying about that, because we'd rather be accurate than tidy.

The first is that there's no entry for Mejorado in the World Coffee Research variety catalogue. The catalogue covers 55 Arabica varieties, and this isn't one of them. So when you read "WCR confirmed", what that actually means is that WCR's DNA fingerprinting service returned a result on samples somebody paid to have tested. That's real evidence. It isn't the same as a published varietal description with agronomic data behind it, and the difference matters when you're deciding how confident to sound.

The second is that not everyone at origin agrees. Juan Peña at Hacienda La Papaya in Loja planted the first Typica Mejorado on his farm in 2009 and maintains his own genetic bank of mother plants. His team's position is that the variety is a hybrid of Typica and an unspecified Ethiopian landrace, which is a different claim to the Bourbon one. The geneticist Christophe Montagnon has reportedly backed the Bourbon reading without publishing the detail.

So: a variety with no formal description, at least two competing accounts of its parentage, and a name that most likely points at the wrong parent. Welcome to coffee genetics.

Our own view follows Roland's. Bourbon crossed with something Ethiopian is the reading with the most evidence behind it, and it's consistent with what the coffee does in the cup, where the Ethiopian half of the family is very hard to miss. But we'd be overselling it if we told you the case was closed.

A Nestlé lab, a field technician, and two seeds

The origin story is the same one we told when we wrote about Sidra, because these two coffees are siblings.

Sometime in the 1990s, a Nestlé breeding facility in Ecuador's Pichincha province was working on new hybrids. The approach, as far as anyone has been able to reconstruct it, involved importing seed from Ethiopia and crossing it with established commercial material to chase both yield and cup quality. Standard breeding logic. Take something wild and genetically distant, cross it with something productive, see what you get.

What they got, according to the story that has held up best, was noticed by a field technician called Don Olger Rogel. He identified two seeds producing the most interesting sensory results, named them Sidra and Typica Mejorado, and set about getting them into the hands of Ecuadorian farmers. The lab closed. Neither variety was ever formally released. The seeds went out anyway, farmer to farmer, with no paperwork and no registration.

José Pepe Jijón at Finca Soledad received the first Typica Mejorado seeds in Ecuador directly from Don Olger and planted them in 2010. He still takes seed from those original mother trees. Peña had planted his a year earlier. Fifteen years on, those two farms sit behind a good proportion of the Mejorado that reaches specialty roasters.

Which explains the name, if you think about it from the farm's point of view. Nobody handed these growers a genetic report. They were given seed by a technician they trusted, they planted it, and the tree that came up was tall and upright with bronze-tipped new leaves, looking for all the world like the Typica their parents grew. It cupped like a very good Typica too. Calling it improved Typica wasn't a marketing decision. It was the most reasonable description available to the people who actually had it growing in the ground.

The Typica Mejorado Family Tree

Tap a varietal to explore its story
Parent populations
Ethiopian Landrace
Ethiopia
Bourbon
Réunion, 1700s
Pichincha selections, 1990s
Typica Mejorado
Ecuador
Sidra
Ecuador
Name only
Named for, not descended from
Typica
Yemen to Java, 1600s

Typica Mejorado

Origin: Pichincha, Ecuador Discovered: 1990s Type: Hybrid

Ecuador's flagship specialty variety, and one of two selections credited to a Nestlé breeding programme in Pichincha. DNA fingerprinting points to a cross between Bourbon and an Ethiopian landrace, which means the Typica in its name almost certainly isn't in its genes. Tall, low-yielding and sensitive, it produces beans of noticeably uneven size and a cup of jasmine, stone fruit and syrupy sweetness.

Heirloom or landrace Hybrid Namesake, unrelated

What the plant is like

Tall. That's the first thing. Typica Mejorado grows upright with slim vertical branching and bronze tips on the new leaves, which is a large part of why the Typica comparison stuck in the first place.

The stronger resemblance, though, is to Gesha. Pepe Jijón reckons that if you stood a Typica Mejorado plant next to a Gesha, you wouldn't be able to tell which was which. The similarities go past appearance. Both have a poor root system. Both are unusually sensitive to their surroundings, and Typica Mejorado in particular struggles with heavy rain and too much direct sun.

Then there's the bean, which is where things get properly awkward for anyone roasting it. Typica Mejorado doesn't produce a uniform screen size. Some beans come out long and elongated in a Gesha sort of way, others are noticeably small, and the variation shows up within the same lot. Altitude and terroir push it around further. Pepe's advice to roasters is to adjust development according to the range of sizes and densities in front of you rather than reaching for a set profile, and producers like Juan Peña have responded by running lots through density sorting several times over to pull some consistency out of it.

Yield is low. Not Gesha-low necessarily, but low enough that planting it is a commitment rather than a hedge.

How it tastes

Jasmine sits on top, almost always. Underneath comes stone fruit, usually peach or apricot, and a citric acidity that's bright without turning sharp. The body is where it separates itself: syrupy, honeyed, thicker than a coffee this floral has any right to be. The finish runs long and sweet.

Roland's read is that it's floral but not light bodied, with complex fruit character, super clean and elegant. Which is a fair description of the best Typica lots you'll ever cup, and precisely the coincidence that gave the variety its name.

It also takes processing remarkably well. Washed lots go towards tangerine, caramel and soft florals. Naturals push into plum, cherry cordial and honeysuckle. Ecuadorian producers have been aggressive with experimental fermentation, and the variety mostly rewards it rather than collapsing under it. Pepe developed a method at Finca Soledad he calls tyoxidator, aerobically fermenting whole cherries in open containers, depulping, then fermenting anaerobically in the mucilage. Dawn Chan took that coffee to fifth place at the 2023 World Barista Championship.

Roast it light to medium-light. The aromatics are the point, and heat is not their friend.

So why isn't everyone growing it?

The honest answer is that Typica Mejorado asks for a great deal and gives back very little volume.

Low yields are the headline problem. Add a weak root system, real sensitivity to rainfall and sun, and beans that refuse to sort themselves into a tidy screen size, and you have a plant that only makes financial sense if you can sell every kilo at a serious price. That works for Peña and Jijón, whose names carry the lots. It works less well for a grower without a competition record or a direct relationship with a roaster willing to pay for rarity.

There's also no formal agronomic data. No World Coffee Research entry means no published rust susceptibility rating, no nutrition guidance, no optimal altitude table. A farmer weighing up whether to plant it is working from a neighbour's experience rather than a catalogue. Pepe reports that after thirteen years his plants have become more resistant to certain pests and diseases, which is encouraging but is one grower's observation on one farm, not a varietal characteristic anyone has verified.

Put together, it means Typica Mejorado is likely to stay a micro-lot coffee. Everyone we've spoken to who grows it says the same thing: demand for seed is climbing, and production is not going to scale to match it any time soon.

Where it grows, and where we found ours

Ecuador is home, overwhelmingly. Loja province does most of the work, with Saraguro in particular producing the lots that built the variety's reputation, and Pichincha still holding some of the oldest plantings. Elevations tend to run between 1,600 and 2,100 metres, and the coffees get better towards the top of that range. Twelve hours of equatorial daylight and cold Andean nights make for slow ripening, which is doing a lot of the heavy lifting in the cup.

Small plantings exist in Colombia and Costa Rica, and Costa Rica is where we came in.

Our first Typica Mejorado comes from Micro-Beneficio Granitos de Altura del Ortiz in Santa María de Dota, in the Tarrazú region of San José province. If the name is familiar, that's because we've been buying their Catuai for years. The mill is run by sisters Joyce and Johana Calderón, with their father Omar looking after the plantations, and the family have been at it since 2013. Joyce's position on growth is refreshingly clear: she isn't interested in making more coffee, she's interested in making better coffee, and would happily produce less of it.

Their farms sit between 1,700 and 2,000 metres on the slopes above the town. It's a long way from Loja, and a Costa Rican Mejorado is still a rare thing. But Tarrazú's combination of altitude and volcanic soil is not a bad substitute for the Andes, and the Calderóns have the processing chops to handle a variety this fussy.

They call it Typica Mejorado. So do we, on the label, because that's what the producer calls it and it isn't our place to rename someone else's coffee from an office in London.

Why the name still matters

Some roasters have started dropping the prefix, selling it simply as Mejorado on the grounds that the full name implies a lineage the genetics don't support. It's a defensible position and we understand the logic.

We've gone the other way, and kept the full name while explaining the problem with it. Partly because the trade knows it as Typica Mejorado and a rename helps nobody find their coffee. Mostly because the mix-up is the interesting part. This is a variety that got named by the people who grew it, based on the best evidence they had, which was a tree that looked like Typica and cupped like Typica. They were reading the plant honestly. The genetics just happened to be doing something else entirely underneath.

Coffee is full of this. Pink Bourbon isn't a Bourbon. Chiroso isn't a Caturra. Sidra, the sibling seed from the same lab, may not have a stable identity at all. Names stick because they're useful, not because they're accurate, and in an industry with no central variety registration that's simply how it goes.

What that leaves you with is a coffee that tastes like the finest Typica anyone ever grew, produced by a plant that has never met one. Order a bag and see whether you can find the Bourbon underneath the jasmine. Tell us if you do.

Quick Varietal Facts

Varietal: Typica Mejorado (also Typica Mejorada, or simply Mejorado)
Type: Hybrid. DNA fingerprinting points to Bourbon crossed with an Ethiopian landrace
Related to: Sidra, a sibling selection from the same breeding programme. Not related to Typica, despite the name
Origin: Pichincha, Ecuador, believed 1990s, at a Nestlé breeding facility
Key distributor: Don Olger Rogel, field technician
Optimal Altitude: 1,600–2,100m, with the best results above 1,800m
Growth Habit: Tall and upright, slim vertical branching, bronze-tipped new leaves. Closely resembles Gesha
Cherry Colour: Red. No formal varietal description exists
Bean Size: Uneven within a single lot. Some long and Gesha-like, others noticeably small
Yield: Low. Comparable to Gesha rather than Caturra
Disease Resistance: No formal data. Growers report a weak root system and high sensitivity to heavy rain and sun exposure
Notable Offspring: None recorded
Typical Cup Profile: Jasmine, peach and apricot, citric acidity, syrupy body, long sweet finish

Further Reading

Perfect Daily Grind – What is Typica Mejorado and will it become more popular in coffee shops?
The best single source on this variety. An interview with José Pepe Jijón covering the Nestlé origin story, the plant's resemblance to Gesha, the uneven bean size, and the tyoxidator processing method.

Royal Coffee – A New World History and Geography of Arabica Coffee Cultivars
Useful wider context on the recent wave of Ethiopian-landrace hybrids reaching the Americas, and refreshingly candid about how fuzzy coffee's genetic record actually is.

World Coffee Research – Typica
The catalogue entry for the variety Typica Mejorado is named after. Worth reading for the contrast, and note that Mejorado itself has no entry of its own.

Coffee Review – New Coffee Varieties: Sidra, Chiroso, Pink Bourbon, Wush Wush
Christophe Montagnon's Core Ethiopia grouping explained, and a good primer on why so many recently famous varieties turn out not to be what their names claim.


Interested in exploring Typica Mejorado's genetic relatives and its namesake? Check out our articles on Sidra, Typica, and Geisha.